EL CRT The Consejo Regulador del Tequila, A.C., or CRT, is the watchdog organization whose strict regulation standards protect the culture and quality of all tequila production in accordance with the Official Mexican Norms or, NOMs, thereby safeguarding Tequila’s precious denominación de origen status. |
I always keep my soul a little drunk with Tequila.
The history of Tequila need not be as drawn out and romanticized as is often done. Tequila is a double distilled beverage made from extracted Agave juices within limited areas of Mexico. The Agave is a fan shaped succulent with long, sword-like leaves. It belongs to the Family of Agavaceae of the Lily Order (Liliales) and bears no relation to a cactus. Only the Agave Tequilana Weber, Variedad Azul, or Blue Agave, is used in making the finest Tequilas, though Mexican law only requires 51% of the final product to be from Agave sugars.
With the arrival of the Spanish in Meso-America came a new era of small pox, Christianity, funny hats, and distillation. Because the familiar fire waters of Europe were too far and too expensive for import the Conquistadores turned their attention to the exotic drink of the natives, pulque (pronounced pool-keh). The hybrid techniques of modern distillation with old world elements yielded a fiery spirit unlike any other experienced before. It was Mezcal, the forerunner to Tequila.
Technically, Tequila is a type of Mezcal, but differs from its Agave cousin much in the same way Irish Whiskey differs from Scotch Whiskey. They are made in different regions of México, from different species of Agaves, and with different cooking methods. The first makings of Tequila were styled as Vino de Mezcal de Tequila or, Mezcal Wine from the town of Tequila.
The popularity of Tequila has been through many highs and lows since the early 19th century with production booms swelling and suffering from economic impacts such as war and famine. The American Civil War, the Mexican Revolution, WWI and II, and the Spanish Influenza each had a significant effect on Tequila consumption in some vein. Thankfully, Tequila has also benefitted from México’s booming tourism industry of the 20th century, and there the romance begins.
From sunny-eyed tourists experiencing the Mexican culture through lazy Margaritas to broader mediums such as Mexican cinema, Mariachi ballads, and American pop culture, Tequila has received one of the most enthusiastic receptions since sliced bread.
Currently there are two types of Tequila categories with several classifications. The first type is 100% de Agave and the second is Mixto. Most Mixto Tequilas will not advertise outright that they are a blend of Agave sugars with other syrups and color additives, but the 100% de Agave will always be labeled appropriately so.
The strictest measure of any Tequila’s class is age. Bottled within 60 days of distillation, Blanco Tequilas are the youngest of all the Tequila classes and often regarded as the purest, because of their quick barrel to bottle turn around. Their character is dominated by a freshly present Agave taste. The more time Tequila spends aging in a wooden barrel the more complex it becomes. Some purists shun this in preference for the fiery Blanco, which is a choice befitting the drinker’s palate.
Joven Abocado Tequilas, as their name implies, are young and adulterated and may contain caramel coloring, distilled cane sugar, oak extract, and glycerin. The practice of stretching Agave sugars with additives became legally acceptable during the mid part of the 20th century to help distillers meet growing Tequila demands during Agave shortages. Also referred to as Gold Tequila, this classification owes its fame to a cheap sticker price making it an attractive mistress for quick and dirty margarita blends.
Reposado Tequilas may rest in wooden barrels for a period of 60 days and no more than 1 year. The barrel size or type of wood used during this time is determined by the individual distillery. Barrel choices may vary slightly, though the use of recycled Bourbon or Whisky barrels remains a popular choice. Tequilas rested in smaller barrel batches result in a stronger wood character which works to soften or mellow the Tequila from its Blanco state, hence the term Reposado, for rested.
Añejo Tequilas are aged for a minimum of 1 year in government sealed barrels containing no more than 600 liters of Tequila. An Añejo classification suggests that the Tequila is well rested and mature having taken on subtle nuances from the type of barrel used in aging. Until recently, an Añejo classification was the oldest any Tequila could receive.
As of 2006 the CRT approved Tequila’s 5th classification, Extra Añejo. Tequilas aged longer than 3 years in government sealed barrels containing no more than 600 liters each may carry the Extra Añejo classification. After 3 years of maturing in oak barrels the Extra Añejos have gained a sophistication and smoothness that rival even the best Single Malt Scotches and Cognacs.
Generally, rested or aged Tequilas are not made from Mixto blends, the process is too long and too expensive to risk quality by stretching the Agave sugars with cane sugar. So while the expectation remains that all aged Tequilas are made from 100% de Agave, it is legally permissible to manufacture a Resposado or Añejo using a Mixto blend. When in doubt, check the label.
Tequila is an exclusive product of México and its denomination of origin is recognized through international agreements which are administered by the United Nation’s specialized agency, the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). All Tequila production is monitored by the Regulatory Council for Tequila (CRT), a SECOFI certified, non-profit organization. The CRT is responsible for enforcing the Official Mexican Standards (NOMs) for Tequila production and assigning each distiller a NOM number (an assurance of compliance, but not necessarily quality). Every label of Tequila is required to have a NOM number which traces the Tequila back to the place where it was manufactured. Many labels share the same NOM, which means they were made at the same distillery. Currently, there are more than 100 distillers responsible for making more than 1000 different Tequilas. And, yes, they each are different.
Sources:
- Chadwick, Ian
- Consejo Regulador del Tequila, A. C.
- Emmons, Bob. The Book of Tequila: A Complete Guide. Peru, IL: Open Court, 1997
- Jones, Darin
- McLynn, Frank. Villa and Zapata: A History of The Mexican Revolution. New York: Carroll & Graf, 2000.
- Menuez, Douglas. Heaven, Earth, Tequila: Un Viaje al Corazón de México. Cardiff-By-The-Sea, CA: Waterside, 2005.
- Parkes, Henry Bamford. A History of Mexico. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1950.
- Valenzuala Zapata, Ana G., and Gary Paul Nabhan. ¡Tequila!: A Natural and Cultural History. Tucson: University of Arizona, 2003.